BURGUNDY 2008
February 2010
Burgundy experienced in 2008 a sunny September with northerly winds, preceded by a cool, wet summer. September’s weather served to ripen and concentrate the fruit, and prevented the spread of rot before an exceptionally late harvest for the region.
A number of wines really impressed us, and we recommend them highly. Reds display ‘just-picked’ fresh, pure, crunchy fruit flavours, sometimes seasoned with exotic floral and spicy perfume. Whites are succulent and juicy, with considerable concentration. Where we weren’t sure about a wine, we omitted it from the offer, and will wait to see how it develops in future before recommending it.
"The 2008 vintage is a spice spectacular: spicy in flavour, spectacular in its last-minute rescue from vinous oblivion... when expectations are low, success is all the sweeter. 2008 was born of rigour, yet is infused with vigour. It is a growers’ vintage - the third in a row of classic Burgundy vintages - which express the progress achieved in this region over the past two decades." Sarah Marsh MW, Decanter, February 2009
Please email kingt@greatwesternwine.co.uk for more information or to place an order for any of these wines.
Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy (Gevrey-Chambertin)
Gérard Harmand can be relied upon not only to make sure that the fruit he picks is of top quality, but also to enable it to reach its full potential, so that each wine articulates the character of its specific vineyard origin. Vintage differences notwithstanding, every vineyard is capable of producing a wine of identifiable personality, and Gérard ensures that this capability is turned into actuality.
To this end, everything is done with utmost gentleness and care: a couple of years ago, Gérard invested in a carpeted fruit conveyor (!), to avoid any damage and premature oxidation of the berries. Each of the wines undergoes very similar barrel ageing, with only subtle differences in the wood used, so their distinct personalities are almost entirely due to ‘terroir’.
Gevrey-Chambertin En Jouise 2008
£220 per dozen bottles, under bond
En Jouise is a vineyard southeast of the village of Gevrey-Chambertin. Sparklingly vibrant fruit and floral aroma; violets and a touch of oak. Definite Gevrey black fruit – damsons, prefacing a stream of alluringly spiced, perfumed flavours. Light tannins, yet no shortage of flavour. Will give lots of drinking pleasure from the end of this year. I re-tasted it later – even more delicious! Wow! 2010-15.
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 2008
£255 per dozen bottles, under bond
Contains fruit from 85 year-old vines in both the Premier Cru and lower portion of the Clos Prieur vineyard. Sweetly ripe blackberry and damson fruit, less floral than En Jouise: bigger, chunkier texture, yet still with juicy acidity. Tannins are also gentle, while the overall impression is of more intensity with more richness and roundness. 2011-16.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru La Bossière 2008
£295 per dozen, under bond
La Bossière is a sheltered site in a coomb overlooking the village. Its highly distinctive wine balances ripe fruit with ethereal lightness because of its altitude (325-340m). Intense aroma of freshly-picked blackberries develops into complex suggestions of rosehips, raspberries and wild strawberry. Tastes like a mouthful of crunchy wild redcurrants and raspberries, set in a feather-light, satin texture. Pronounced fruit intensity; exhilarating tension between fruit and tingly acidity. 2010-16.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru La Perrière 2008
£295 per dozen, under bond
Geographically close to En Jouise, with similar perfumed black fruit aromas; this shows a big step up in intensity. Behind the ripe black fruit, complex flavours suggestive of cranberry, vanilla, lily and fennel seed are discernible. Juicy and approachable, it also has the structure for some years’ ageing. 2011-17.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux St Jacques
£325 per dozen, under bond
Hugh Johnson considers this south-facing Premier Cru site to be worthy of Grand Cru status. Its wine is consistently superb. The most reticent of the Premiers Crus, this requires some aeration before displaying concentrated black cherry and gingerbread aromas. On the palate, it is currently rather closed with regard to specific flavours, although it shows clearly that it has impressive depth, and piercing concentration of flavour. Its tannic structure is softer than most vintages, so I expect it to be drinkable sooner, although it should be capable of lasting for at least a decade. 2012-20.
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
£530 per dozen, under bond
The outstanding characteristics of this vineyard really show this year: it almost seems to come from an altogether more powerful vintage, except for its wonderful freshness that is every bit 2008. Everything is very concentrated - the intense damson and blackberry fruit, the robust underlying minerality and the considerable tannic structure. It has sublime length of flavour, and the finish already hints at marvellous complexity which will become more pronounced as it matures. Among the best Mazis-Chambertins, at an excellent price - the average price for this Grand Cru across all producers is more than £900 per case. 2014-25.
Please email kingt@greatwesternwine.co.uk for more information or to place your order.
